If materials designers and engineers keep this going who knows I could see the tech and materials in a book like ‘Lucifer’s Dragon’ (Jon Courtenay Grimwood) around in a few years

When you think of concrete you don’t think soft, inviting, or airy do you? Well you might soon with the introduction  of light transmitting concrete. A company called Litracon has produced a concrete material filled with optical fibres running from one end of a poured block to the other. These fibres effectively transmit light from one side of the block to the other, they can transmit light over a distance of 50 feet and as the fibres only occupy a vary small percentage of the block it doesn’t significantly effect the structural capabilities of the concrete. I love this material as it has so many opportunities to transform our urban landscape from something harsh and rigid into organic and artistic.

These are really just for fun, thermochromic pigments have been around for a while. The shower application is brilliant!!

?!?!? see through metal? Now I’ve seen everything. This new development is stronger than glass but still just as transparent this aluminum was made by adding in variuos bits and bobs including rubies and sapphires! For the moment it’s being trialed in various military applications and a thin foil version is being used to wrap computer and car parts that need to be protected from static. It’s not cheap enough for main stream use yet but with new developments being made all the time we might yet see the see through drinks can being sold

Aerogel is a super low density material that has incredible properties. It can support thousand of times it’s own heat, block out intense heat, cold and sound yet it’s composed of 99.8% air!!! It’s 1,000 times less dense than glass and just as transparent, a single one pound block can support half a tone of weight. Aside from its other capabilities, aerogel also has amazing absorbing abilities. Some say it could be the future solution to oil spills. It is also being tested as a possible slow-release drug deliver system for human patients.

These brilliant tea bags were designed by Takashi Yamada as an eco friendly alternative to tea lights. Just add water and you have a  beautiful glowing liquid in just about any colour. I think they’re awesome but where could you use them? Restaurants? hmmm… children would be seriously tempted to drink it… Adult only situations then like clubs? Nope not there either, drunk people are a lot like children only less sensible

 

Last but by no means least, liquid wood. Thats right you heard me correctly, liquid wood. It looks like wood, feels like wood, is even made of wood – but it shifts shape and solidifies like plastic, bringing together the most powerful material assets of two of the most used materials on the planet. It’s made from lignin, the bit of trees that is left over during the paper-making process. It’s combined with natural resins, flax and fibers that can then be injected into moulds just like plastic! Arboform, as it is known, can be made into just about anything plastic can be with the added bonus that it can break down quickly into products like water and carbon dioxide. In short: I am talking about the precision, flexibility and durability of plastic … with the 100% recyclable, renewable, tactile and aesthetic advantages of wood, in a single new material. Eat your heart out, see-through concrete and transparent aluminum!

Wow, what a journey. From landing in OZ (being given my skills audit), traveling the yellow brick road (filling in the gaps in my knowledge) to escaping the evil flying monkeys (procrastination, confusion and misinformation) I think I’ve finally arrived…

My attitude towards the whole of electronics at the start of this process was one of irrational panic and dislike. I’d never felt any inclination towards learning anything about electronics or how any of the devices I use day to day work. Things have changed so much! This subject is immense and so exciting. It’s no longer incomprehensible and intimidating, I understand how current flows through a circuit and what it will do when it reaches a component, I can now look at a circuit or circuit diagram and either know what it will do or have a good enough idea about the components used to work it out.

Right at the beginning of this project I defined competence for myself, my aim being to reach this rarefied state by the end of this semester. So the question is, am I there yet?

Here is an extract from my work on competence, it’s where I finally defined what I think it means to be competent:

So, what is competence? In doing this research my original definition now seems deficient. Competence is not just about having knowledge or understanding the theory of a subject, or even about being able to pass on that knowledge, it’s about being able to ‘do’ as well as ‘say’. To be competent in a subject you need to understand it but also to be able to apply your understanding, to make a product or to be able to understand why something isn’t working and how to fix it.

To be able to get to this point I have gone through the process of research and experimentation detailed in this project, gathering knowledge and working out how to use it. I had really underestimated my abilities in understanding electronics in general and the more work I put into the research and investigations at the start of this process the more a very surprising thing became obvious… It’s fun and I’m really interested in it! I had it in my head from the start of this year that I would be specialising in resistant materials but part way through this project that no longer seems like a concrete concept. I was picking up knowledge much faster and understanding concepts more quickly than I was expecting. The real breakthrough came when I started my first circuit experiments, actually making a circuit, even if it’s just a prototype, has been the best way to work out if I know my stuff. I started working my way towards being competent in reading and understanding circuit diagrams, able to put a circuit together and be confident that it would work on powering up.

At this stage in my process I had made headway into understanding my chosen subject and applying my understanding. Going further I moved on to more complex circuits previously far beyond my capabilities, and conquered them. Each one of my circuits worked (with only a couple of hiccups) and more than that I understood why and how they worked. I started to help other students in building their own circuits and relaying my gathered information on digital electronics to make things clearer. By the time I got to building and testing my binary to decimal counter I was already feeling competent, at least in interpreting the diagrams, prototyping the circuits and understanding the signals involved.

It was at this point that I was considering what I needed to do to actually prove competence, my natural inclination was to design and make a product but on reflection what would be the point? Any product I could come up with would be dealing with only part of my gathered knowledge so why make one? The light bulb moment came on talking to Dean and actually asking myself ‘Do you feel competent?’ the answer being ‘sort of’. The only area I was not comfortable with was in fault finding and troubleshooting, in each instance of one of my circuits not functioning it had taken either Dean or Steve to help me fix it and as I had stated in my definition I needed to be able to ‘understand why something isn’t working and how to fix it’. 

Without taking this step I would not be fully competent, it was also a major sticking point with me as the most frustrating thing about electronics has been powering up a circuit and not knowing why it’s not working. In going through a process of solving the issues in a series of circuits I now have a fuller understanding of the circuits themselves, not just being able to spot and correct issues. Looking at signals going to and from my ICs really presses home all the knowledge I’ve gathered, it makes it more present and accessible. 

Now that I’ve come to the end of this project I can confidently say that I consider myself to be competent in digital electronics but it goes further than that. In doing these investigations it has given me a wider appreciation for the subject of electronics and a thirst to continue my explorations. I no longer have that panicky feeling of not understanding when facing anything electronic, instead it has been replaced by a strong curiosity, wanting to understand this area that has so much to do with moder life and modern design.

I cannot emphasise enough how useful this process has been and how much it has added to my knowledge as a designer. I can carry the work done here not only through to my future career in teaching but also into my way of viewing the world, my decisions as a consumer and my creativity. I think I’ve arrived at the Emerald Castle and who knows… In a couple of years I may be replacing the wizard ;)

Each panel interacts with the next to produce a final outcome of a binary to decimal counter that counts from 0-9 then resets. You’ve got the 555 panel with adjustable components to produce the initial signal pulse, this then feeds into two NOT gates forming a buffer to boost the signal from the 555. It then hooks up to a ripple counter made up of d-type flip flops and on into the 4 outputs representing the binary count, using a 4028 chip this output is then decoded into a decimal count. It doesn’t stop there, using the AND gate panel you hook up a gate to two of the binary outputs to get it to reset after counting 9. Phew! It’s a really comprehensive look at digital electronics, you have to be able to understand the 555 timers states, what various logic gates do, how to wire up a ripple counter form flip flops and why the whole thing works the way it does.

I’d love to have had this at the start of this project, it puts everything I’ve been looking at into one package

There’s only one problem… It’s not working properly:

Being a fault finding master now I volunteeredto help him work out what was wrong with it. The next morning I set about trying to work out what had gone wrong (Steve had already worked it out but it’s a good test of my new found confidence with circuitry so he let me have a play) The problem was the binary to decimal counter was not working correctly, after checking out the leads connecting all the components up it’s definitely a problem in the binary to decimal panel…

Using the output from the monostable 555 I tested each of the binary outputs in turn to see what lit up. No wonder the count is mangled! the binary inputs to the 4028 chip are wired in the wrong order! Steve needed to fix his project then so I didn’t have time to carry the test through to see which input was lighting which output to correct it but with a little more time I wouldn’t have any issues completing the fix.

We have quite a quandary here don’t we? We all want to be more environmentally friendly but we also need to buy things like food, clothes, furniture and stuff to keep us clean.

If you’ve read my posts on packaging design you’ll see that any company wanting it’s product to be successful, whatever it is, needs to package it in a way that makes it visually appealing and protects the product during transport, storage and sale. For this post I’m going to concentrate on food packaging, I know it’s had a lot of bad press recently, the reason why I’m using this example is because of the improvements that have been made.

When the environment became the ‘big topic’ one of the major things that came under scrutiny was food packaging. Why on earth does a package of biscuits need a cardboard box and a plastic tray and a cellophane sleeve to be sold! the biggest offenders were seen to be things like Easter eggs.

Cadbury’s was seen to be one of the worst offenders with one of their eggs needing a box, a plastic insert, foil wrapping, the wrappers on the two flakes that came with it and a box to put the flakes in!!

They claimed it was to protect the product from breakage during transport. the bad press resulted in a huge drop in sales, people were voting with their cash and buying products with less packaging. Cadbury’s was forced to have a bit of a rethink. They trialed boxes without the plastic inserts to see if the lack of the plastic support would cause an increase in breakages, when the figures came back positive they took another massive step and got rid of the box all together!

Other confectioners eat your hearts out!! Cadbury’s eggs are now cheaper and much more environmentally friendly. With out the excess packaging the eggs now take up less space so more can be transported at the same time and the reduction in packaging has also had a knock on effect on the price. People are also much more environmentally aware so are making the conscious choice to pick eco friendly products. All this and Cadbury’s has reported only a slight rise in the rate of breakages. Now if we could only get all the rest to follow suit…

The self balancing bookshelf:

What a conversation starter, I think when I move next I might just have to make space to build one of these…

The best video tutorial on the differential gear:



I love this video, right down to the 1930′s voice and the use of the motor cycle stunt team!

The customisable public bench:

Basically, using a utility box located near the bench, anyone can alter their urban environment. Talk about power to the people, designed by Carmela Bogman and Roger Martens it means to put a DIY urban design element back in the hands of the broader public.

The gear ring:

For fidgets everywhere

Folding concrete!

Designed by Dror Benshetrit, these blocks work based on 4 elements cleverly joined that use gravity to hold them open. The applications are huge, as part of the research for this design the tried out wooden and metal frame versions and found that with a few additional elements you could have almost instant temporary housing that would be structurally sound, strong and would last, new innovation in refugee camp building?

I love the book version, I want to build a book case using them

Right, last visual inspection:

• Double check your circuit matches your diagram.
• Is everything pushed in properly?
• Are all polarised components in the right way round?
• Are your stripped wire ends the right length? (5-10mm)
• Have any connections snapped?
• Are the values of your components correct? (resistors, capacitors etc.)
• Is your IC in the right way round?!?

Astable circuit: the capacitor was not pushed into the right place, all resistor values are ok, capacitor value is ok, all polorised components are placed correctly and the 555 is in the right way round.

Binary counter: I’ve checked the connections to and from the 4510 using the datasheet found here: datasheet HCF4510BE checking the pinout against the board:

1. Pin 16 going high – check
2. Pin 15 clock input taken from the output of the 555 timer – check
3. Pin 14 going to LED output (4s) – check
4. Pin 13 going to ground – check
5. Pin 12 going to ground – check
6. Pin 11 going to LED output (2s) – check
7. Pin 10  going high – check
8. Pin 9 going to ground through pull down resistor – check
9. Pin 8 going to ground – check
10. Pin 7 not connected – check
11. Pin 6 going to LED output (1s) – check
12. Pin 5 going to ground – check
13. Pin 4 going to ground – check
14. Pin 3 going to ground – check
15. Pin 2 going to LED output (8s) – check
16. Pin 1 going to ground – check

 All resistor values are OK, all LEDs are in the right way round, all transistors are connected up correctly and the chip is in the right way round.

Binary to decimal counter: the chip is in the wrong way round!

Using the datasheet found here: datasheet HCF4028BE I’ve checked the pinout against the board:

1. Pin 16 going high – check
2. Pin 15 going to LED output (3) - check
3. Pin 14 going to LED output (1) – check
4. Pin 13 input taken from the binary circuit output (2s) – check
5. Pin 12 input taken from the binary circuit output (4s) – check
6. Pin 11 input taken from the binary circuit output (8s) – check
7. Pin 10 input taken from the binary circuit output (1s) - check
8. Pin 9 going to LED output (8) – check
9. Pin 8 going to ground – check
10. Pin 7 going to LED output (6) – check
11. Pin 6 going to LED output (5) - check
12. Pin 5 going to LED output (9) - wrong! it’s going to 7!
13. Pin 4 going to LED output (7) - wrong! it’s going to 9!
14. Pin 3 going to LED output (0) – check
15. Pin 2 going to LED output (2) – check
16. Pin 1 going to LED output (4) – check

The resistor values are all OK but two of the LEDs are the wrong way round. That, I think, is everything, time to power up… 

• Is anything heating up? (Be careful!)
• Does it smell of burning?

Arrggg hot chip!! The 555 is roasting! I really don’t understand why it’s not working… Steve hint’s to take a closer look… 

The 555 isn’t a 555! it’s a 741CN or an op-amp in English. Right swap it out and try again…

It works! Kind of The LED output representing the 1s on the binary counter isn’t working. Time to tool up.

• Top down, bottom up or split depending on type and size of circuit.
• Multimeter to check continuity and voltage values.
• Oscilloscope to check signal types and changes.

I’m going for the split method as I know that the input is working and some of the output is working so potentially I might have a misfiring pin. Using the oscilloscope I checked out the signals going from the 4 outputs:

As it’s the output corresponding to the 1s column it should switching high and low at a frequency half that of the pulse from the astable output. Hmmm… all the outputs are acting correctly, it must be something in the resistor, transistor LED array.

After the incident with the monstable LED I switched it out to rule out a blown LED which didn’t fix it so… It’s either a problem with the wires or the transistor. I checked the continuity of the wires using the multimeter, no problems there so it must be the transistor. On lifting it out to check the connections I found that sneaky Steve had cut the base lead off to just the right length that it looked correct from a external perspective, clever

It’s not all plain sailing though, after switching out the transistor I loudly announced that it was fixed, sounding ever so pleased with myself… that is until Steve said ‘are you sure?’ Turns out I’d missed another blown LED the one corresponding the the 0 on the decimal side. Oh well, missing one blown bulb isn’t so bad, I won’t be so cocky next time!

• Double check your circuit matches your diagram.
• Is everything pushed in properly?
• Are all polarised components in the right way round?
• Are your stripped wire ends the right length? (5-10mm)
• Have any connections snapped?
• Are the values of your components correct? (resistors, capacitors etc.)
• Is your IC in the right way round?!?

Straight off I can see that although the circuit diagram is correct the connection to the resistor and on to the LED has been moved:

As this is a breadboard circuit the connection needs to be on the same vertical line of connections as the resistor to make the connection.

All polorised components ok, all resistor values ok, the chip is in the right way round, time to power up…

• Is anything heating up? (Be careful!)
• Does it smell of burning?

No explosions Hmmm… still not working. time to do the top down checks

• Top down, bottom up or split depending on type and size of circuit.
• Multimeter to check continuity and voltage values.
• Ocilloscope to check signal types and changes.

I’m using the multi meter to check the power going to and coming from each stage of the circuit using the Top Down method:

1. Voltage is traveling through the switch ok
2. The capacitor is charging properly
3. The readout from Pin 8 is 9V as expected
4. the readout from Pin 4 is 9V as expected
5. Pin 1 is at 0V as expected
6. Pin 2 goes high when the switch is closed
7. Pin 7 follows the capacitor charge as expected
8. Pin6 follows the capacitor charge as expected

This only left Pin 3 which is the output going to the LED, surprisingly this is also going high when the switch is closed, power is getting to the LED… Steve must have fried it!

Bingo, after swapping out the LED for a new one my circuit now works

On to Number 4.

• Double check your circuit matches your diagram.
• Is everything pushed in properly?
• Are all polarised components in the right way round?
• Are your stripped wire ends the right length? (5-10mm)
• Have any connections snapped?
• Are the values of your components correct? (resistors, capacitors etc.)
• Is your IC in the right way round?!?

Hmmm… I can’t see any faults. I wonder if this is a red herring, I’ll double check. I’ve checked the position of the base, collector and emmiter using the transistors datasheet found here: NPN datasheet BC109.

I still can’t find anything, all the polarised components are ok, no loose or broken connections, the values are ok… time to power up.

It works! definitely a red herring then.

On to Number 3.

• Double check your circuit matches your diagram.
• Is everything pushed in properly?
• Are all polarised components in the right way round?
• Are your stripped wire ends the right length? (5-10mm)
• Have any connections snapped?
• Are the values of your components correct? (resistors, capacitors etc.)
• Is your IC in the right way round?!?

On comparing the circuit to the diagram the first fault is found!

An extra wire has been added connecting pin 1 to ground.

After removing the additional wire the circuit matches the diagram. All components are pushed in, the LED is the right way round, no snapped or short connections, all resistors are the correct values and the chip is the right way round, I’ve also double checked the pinout of the chip using the datasheet found here: TC4011BP data sheet. Time to power up…

• Is anything heating up? (Be careful!)
• Does it smell of burning?

Nothing melted and I still have all my fingers but it doesn’t work This is frustrating I’ve double checked the circuit diagram, the connections, the pinout of the chip and by all rights it should work!!

Note to self… Steve is sneaky. As all my circuits are made on breadboards I had removed all references to soldering from my original fault finding document. For this circuit I used two SPST switches, as they don’t fit straight into the board I had to solder on lead wires to the correct points. After examining the switches I can see that he’s changed the points that my wires are attached to, moving one on each off the common!

I’ve adjusted my procedure accordingly

On to Number 2.

The transistor circuit is one that I’ve not tried out before, I’ve simulated it using Circuit Wizard in my previous post so now time to bring it into the real world:

 Next is the monostable:

And lastly the beast… The binary to decimal counter:

I’ve built and tested each one, they’re functional and ready to be maliciously tampered with Steve has volunteered to be the saboteur and after handing over my lovingly put together breadboards *sob* he has made a total of 10 faults. Steve has kept a record of everything he’s done so I can compare notes with him once they’re all working again. On with my protocol then…